On this page we’ve provided some information regarding visiting Isla Mujeres as a cruising destination. The information provided here is based on our own observations and perspectives and though we’ve tried to make this information as accurate as possible we provide no guarantees. For additional information please visit www.myislamujeres.com.
Getting To Isla Mujeres Approaching Isla Mujeres is relatively easy from both the north and the south though caution should be taken when navigating close to the reefs or in shallow waters. The approach from the north should only be made in calm to moderate conditions as you will have to pass over a reef in as little as 8 to 10 feet of water. The approach from the south should be taken if the seas are moderately rough to rough. For detailed information regarding waypoints and entrance hazards please refer to your cruising guide or pilots guide. Our favorite guide is Cruising Belize and Mexico’s Caribbean Coast by Freya Rauscher. Be sure to have your courtesy and quarantine flags flying when entering Mexican waters.
Check-In Procedures Mexico now requires that an agent be used when checking into Mexico. There are a few agents available so be sure to ask what their fees are as they range from $50 to $220. Our preferred agent is Miguel at Marina Pariaso, he is very efficient and affordable. Officially check in procedures should begin immediately upon arrival but because most of the officials live off the island it is usually acceptable to check in at the beginning of the next business day. If you do check in on a weekend or holiday expect to pay double for overtime charges.
To check in you will need six copies of your crew list, your exit papers (zarpa) from your last port of call unless you departed from your home country, ships documentation and passports. Your agent will make arrangements for sanitation to come and visit your boat to check for insects and contraband meats/vegetables. The sanitation officer will fill out some paperwork for you to sign. This only takes a few minutes. The agent will then take care of clearing your vessel with the port captain as well as getting your vessel’s importation papers. You and your crew will be required to visit the Immigration officer to obtain your visas and you will have to make a trip to the bank to pay the immigration fees. Everything else is handled by the agent. The agents will contact you regarding any signatures they need and when your paperwork is ready. Our check in procedure took a total of three hours of our time. At the time of this writing the cost to check in was approximately $130.
Where to Stay When arriving by boat one can choose to anchor in the beautiful anchorage or take a slip in one of four marinas.
Anchoring in the harbor here can be a wonderful experience provided your ground tackle is sufficient for your boat. There are typically two areas to anchor, the east harbor and the west harbor. The east side will put you closer to land and near the beaches while the west side will put you further away from town and closer to the mangroves. If choosing the west side of the harbor be cautious of many shoals that can even put a dingy aground. The bottom holding consists mainly of some sea grass, a layer of about a foot or two of sand then hard limestone. It is common for boats to drag anchor in winds in excess of 20 knots but this is usually because of insufficient ground tackle size or lack of scope. We have not had any issues with our Spade anchor. It appears that the CQR anchors drag the most while Fortress anchors hold well. Many boats set two anchors as a precautionary method. If your plans are to anchor out find a suitable place where you can put out a 7 to one scope. Though an all chain rode is ideal a minimum of 50’ should be considered sufficient. Since you will be anchoring in an average depth of 10 feet one can easily dive down on the anchor to ensure it it set. There are many places to take your dingy ashore including the beaches, the Pemex fuel dock and the marinas. If heading into town the most popular dingy dock is the one located at the Port Captain’s dock just south of the ferry docks. Though the guide books say you can anchor in the inner lagoon it is now restricted and you can only anchor there in foul weather.
If you are looking at staying at a marina there are four to choose from ranging from just good enough to luxury living. All of the marinas are med moor type but because there are two posts away from the dock there is no need to put out your ground tackle when docking. Each of the marinas vary in price range and have discounted rates for monthly stays. Rates also drop some during off season which is typically from July to November.
Club de Yates is the northern most marina and is the first one you’ll come to when entering the harbor. This marina offer’s a fuel dock, showers, laundry, electricity and water. There are a few side ties here as well as a restaurant and bar. This marina is more exposed to the swells and has a tendency to be rocky. Also, since it is right next to the ferry docks one will have to contend with the swells and noise created by the ferries. Club de Yates has a large sport fishing population on it’s only pier but occasionally you will find other sail boats docked there. Because this marina is located right in town you will find shopping and going out much more convenient. Launching the dingy here would not be necessary unless you are going out to explore the rest of the island. Depths range from 4 to 10 feet. The rates here during peak season at the time of this writing is $1.60 per foot per day. If paying for a monthly rate then the price drops to 50 cents per foot per day. These rates include electricity and water.
Nacho’s Marina is the second marina you will come to and is located in the harbor about a quarter mile south of the ferry docks and consists of only one pier catering mostly to sail boats. There are no shower or laundry facilities but electricity and water are included in their rates. Depths range from 4 to 9 feet. At the time of this writing their monthly rate was $250 USD.
Marina Pariaso is the southern most marina in the main lagoon and holds 24 power and sail boats. This marina is considered the cruiser’s choice. Services included here include laundry, shower, water, electricity, salt water swimming pool, check-in agent, fixed docks and even apartments. Every afternoon at 1600 the marina hosts happy hour with $1 beers for all cruisers, not only those leasing a slip. On Wednesday afternoons along with happy hour the cruisers host a pot luck dinner and on Friday afternoons it’s h’orderves with happy hour. Marina Pariaso’s rates are 31 cents per foot per day per month, electricity is charged at $4.00 day. Taxi rides from here to town run about $1 USD each way. The staff here is very helpful in finding anything you need, they’ll also provide a variety of services such as boat washing, waxing, stainless polishing and such for $10 USD per hour. We’ve enjoyed our stay here very much and recommend Marina Pariaso very highly.
Puerto Isla Mujeres is the luxurious marina located in the inner lagoon offering floating docks, fuel dock, boat yard with travel lift, electricity, water and cable television. Fully manicured landscaping, fresh water swimming pool, a bar and a restaurant are at your disposal. This is where you’ll see the multimillion dollar yachts and a huge fleet of sport fishers. At the time of this writing there are only three sailboats berthed there. Aside from being the most expensive marina in town it is also the furthest from town. One can dingy to town in about 10 to 15 minutes or take a taxi for about $2 USD each way. During peak season rates are $1.70 USD per foot per day, no discounts for longer stays and electricity is not included. During off season rates for sail boat is about $550 month, electricity runs an additional $8 per day.
Cost of Living The cost of living on Isla Mujeres will be a pleasant welcome to those coming from the United States or other Eastern Caribbean countries. At the time of this writing the current exchange rate is $11.10 pesos per $1.00 USD. Rather than getting so detailed into the cost of everything I’ve decided to list some examples below to give you and idea of what it costs to shop here.
Dinner with drinks for two range from about $6 USD to as much as $70 USD depending where and what you want to eat. Our favorite place to eat is a taco stand within walking distance from the marina. Three tacos each with all the fixings and drinks and tip runs us about $7 USD total. Other meal favorites include whole fried fish (snapper, grouper or hog fish) $8 to $10, tacos or sandwiches $1, nachos $2, whole bbq chicken with four side dishes and tortillas $4, steak and lobster $25. Not only is eating here very inexpensive it is fun. Part of our daily activities is to find a new place for lunch when we go out, searching the side streets and back alleys for the local joints.
Beverages here are also inexpensive. Sodas at the convenience store are 60 cents, at the restaurant they are $1. Beers are $1 each or as little as $4 case, big bottles of Barcardi Rum $6, Kahlua $7, and wine mostly under $10.
Hotels on the island are priced to fit any budget ranging from $20 a night to $1500 a week. Internet cafes average about $1.50 per hour, long distance calls back to the United States with a calling card is about 50 cents per minute.
Copyright 2004, 2005, 2006 S/V Bruadair. No reproduction without written consent.