ࡱ>    !"#$%&'()*+,-./0123456789:;<=>?@ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ[\]^_`abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz{|}~Root EntryZ O20pE{l CONTENTS CompObjVSPELLING   !"#$%&'()st. Historically the islands had a checkered past -- Payan Indians, removed by the Spanish, followed by boatloads of buccaneers praying upon the Spanish Main, then English control, which was relinquished to Honduras in 1876. Though neglected for many years by mainland Honduras, that era has passed. The islands are now very much Honduran, though with a thoroughgoing bilingual legacy of English as well as Spanish. Reaching the most westerly of the Bay Islands, Utila, requires no more than a short overnight passage from either Livingston, Guatemala (at the mouth of the Rio Dulce) or from any of the southernmost Belize anchorages. UTILA is renowned as  the cheapest place in the world to take a scuba certification course (hence its attraction to a steady stream of backpack-toting dive enthusiasts). Not only that but the diving IS first-rate, and in-water whale shark watching is legendary. Other amenities are inexpensive as well % restaurants and reprovisioning possibilities more so than anywhere but the Honduran mainland. Utila is the island that owes most to its British (via the Cayman Islands) heritage. It is also one of the easiest and most convenient places for a country check-in (or out) in the Caribbean. Approach. If sailing from Belize, you ll want to take care to plot a course that adequately skirts the reefs that extend south and west of Utila s West End. One of these (well south of West End) is now marked by a lonely fishing camp, built on stilts on an otherwise invisible shoal. In 2002, we had an early-mCHNKWKS TEXTTEXTHFDPPFDPPFDPCFDPCSTSHSTSHhSTSHSTSHhSYIDSYID SGP SGP INK INK "BTEPPLC &BTECPLC >FONTFONTVpTOKNPLC Ɛ>STRSPLC :PRNTWNPR>fFRAMFRAMTITLTITL,>DOP DOP j876. Though neglected for many yearsENKIDU  44 LaFitte cutter  6 6 draft  November 2003 Subject/Area:  Around the Corner : The Bay Islands of Honduras to San Andrs, Columbia Those who have traveled Honduras Islas de la Bahia will carry vivid memories of Caribbean cruising, gunkholing and, if time and skills permitted, Kodachrome snorkeling and diving. Yet the Bay Islands can be a cruiser s frustration a well, situated as they are along the wind arrows of the eastern trades. For some the Bay Islands are ports of destination with preset return schedules to Florida or Gulf Coast U.S. For others they re a crossroads at the approach of hurricane season  some of the cruising fleet skating off the wind north from Panama and the Eastern Caribbean, the rest awaiting a weather window sufficient for a feasible beat  around the corner (Cabo Garcias a Dios, Honduras) to the Columbia islands of Providencia and San Andrs and farther south. In either case, boats visiting the area with SSB capability will want to be aware of the Northwestern Caribbean Net, meeting daily at 14:00 Z (8:00 a.m. CST) on 6.209 MHz and the Panama Connection Net, daily at 13:30 Z (8:30 a.m. EST) on 8.107 MHz. Casting off from St. Petersburg, Florida in February 2003 for our third passage to the Western Caribbean, the Bay Islands were once again a destination of choice. But this time we determined to round the corner for cruising grounds in lower latitudes as well. The major Bay Islands (Utila, Roatan and Guanaja  along with five smaller ones and 65 cays) are the geological products of up-thrusts and some volcanic activity along a series of faults along the escarpment of the Bartlett Trough. Highest island elevations range from a maximum of just over 300 feet on Utila (Pumpkin Hill) to more than 1,300 feet on Guanaja to the eaorning surprise as we came up behind it, thinking it was a slow moving barge headed for Puerto Este. The deeper reefs (50  150 ), extending westward of the main island, are nightly frequented by numerous unlit fishing dories, suggesting the precaution of a radar watch while crossing them. Puerto Este (otherwise known as Utila Town at the easterly end of the Island) is protected from the North through Southeast by the island itself and a reef marked by the Puerto Este light (high metal pole midway along the harbor s protective reef). To avoid this reef, extending well east of the light, we use an entry WP of N 16 05 W 086 54 , taking a course of 25M, sighting on the red and white micro tower in the center of the Puerto Este settlement. (The TV satellite dish used as a reference in an earlier cruising guide no longer exists.) The small white buoy to port on entry along this course marks a dive site over a relatively shallow reef. Similar conical white buoys surrounding the Puerto Este light are also set for divers over the shallow reefs in that area, and are not useful for navigation. Anchorage. We ve found the anchorage with most reliable holding to be somewhat east of the gray concrete town dock at the center of the village, in the area comfortably off the fuel dock (marked by two high, cylindrical, white tanks). Holding is in grass over sand (12  20 ) and secure once you ve established a deep set. Others prefer the area still farther east and somewhat south, tucked inside the harbor s protective reef. Additional anchorage is available west of the Municipal Dock, near the easterly end of the town s sandy beach (just beyond the settlement). The bottom relief and holding are variable there, however. Checking In. A full-time Port Capitan and Immigration Officer maintain regular weekday hours in their offices on the town dock. You can park your dink at either of the two wooden docks immediately to the left of the Municipal Dock. All you ll need is a complete crew list (four copies in Spanish), the passports of all on board, a copy of your ship s documentation papers, and a modest fee (the equivalent of about $6 in Lempiras in 2003). Money exchange and debit/credit card withdrawals/advances (in Lemps) are available at the bank just across the street from the foot of the dock. Photocopies can be made at the Internet Caf on Main Street (along the waterfront) about a block west of the town dock. It s best to start with the Port Captain, establish the exact change (in Lemps) required, bank accordingly, then proceed to the Immigration Officer. Both speak limited English, are professional and very helpful. No Customs check-in is required for cruising yachts in Honduras. Also, for those already cleared into Honduras, no further formalities are necessary during intermediate stops. Puerto Este Ashore. Apart from checking in, we prefer to park the dink at the wooden dock recently constructed for that purpose behind Bush s Store (two-story, white with blue-trim structure, a short distance west of the fuel dock). They ll keep an eye on it for you (though it s hardly necessary), and there s no need to buy anything or even enter the store. (You ll likely want to, however, since this is one of the most thoughtfully stocked grocery stores in the Bay Islands. And when the boat comes in with fresh veggies, including hydroponic baby lettuce from Roatan, you ll want to be on time. Ask at Bush s for an ETA.) Trash can be deposited in the plastic can in front of the store. A second fairly large grocery store (and money exchange) is also located on Main Street, about a block-equivalent west of the Municipal Dock. Two remarkably well-stocked hardware stores and an amazing general store are also located down this way. For fuel (diesel and gasoline), check ahead with the attendant ashore for a commitment on both fuel and dock space availability. With last year s dredging completed, we were able to get our 6  draft in for a secure tie-up. Still the hose was a tantalizing 15 short; a longer one was said to be  on the way . In 2002 and 2003 (four occasions), the price for diesel fuel here was the best in the Bay Islands and the product thoroughly filtered. Of restaurants, Utila has more than its share. Catering, as they do, to an international backpack community, they tend to be basic-no-frills, appetizing and inexpensive. All on Main Street: A breakfast  tipico from the  baleada ladies (foot of the dock) could start a Honduran addiction. This warm refried beans,  crema and tortilla affair is that tasty and at a giveaway price. The Bundu Caf is also locally famed for its breakfast goodies (crepes, fruits, bagels, and the like), not to mention its coffees. We liked Munchies Caf for their fresh fruit plates, served on the porch of Utila s oldest house. At lunchtime, we found it difficult not to gravitate to the Mango Inn (on Monkey Tail Rd., running perpendicular to Main St. at the Municipal Dock, and several blocks north toward the new airport). Their outdoor brick-oven pizza specials are hard to beat anywhere. Nearby, a tour of the Jade Seahorse is not to be missed for its unique, museum-like quality, not necessarily for its food. Our favorite quality/value for dinner is JR s Barbeque  fish, steaks, pork or chicken and all the extras for a price that s difficult to comprehend. They re on Main St. past the fuel dock; check days and times (they fill up early in the evening). There are many more. Otherwise, Utila Reef Cinema has several movies a week; Bay Island Originals has the specialty Honduran goods, including coffees and cigars; Bar in the Bush (well out the airport road) has a reputation for raucous late-night entertainment. Diving enthusiasts should check around for comparative prices, equipment (including compressor) quality and safety routines. Knowledgeable locals recommended both Capt. Morgan s and Cross Creek Dive Center to us. Cross Creek also has an impressive supply of Yanmar diesel parts, and is a Sherwood regulator dealer. Both the water ferry and scheduled airplanes make roundtrips to La Ceiba on the mainland daily. The Utila Cays. The earliest modern inhabitants of Utila  mostly emigrating from Grand Cayman  located their settlement on Upper (AKA Sucsuc) Cay and Down (AKA Jewel) Cay to avoid the voracious sand flies of the main island. Over the years the islands have gradually been enlarged somewhat (rock by rock, brought in by the residents) and the footbridge between the two has shortened. The cays have also become bilingual with the influx of Spanish-speaking migrants from the mainland. A small, rustic hotel caters to divers at the north end of Sucsuc. Other than that there are several tiny grocery stores (one of them selling fresh  Roatan bread ) and a couple of equally tiny restaurants, both of them on the main, walking-only street. Susan s (on Sucsuc) has the local rep for her fish burgers and Cay View Restaurant (Daphne s on Jewel Cay) has the best value full-dinner plate in the Bay Islands ( plato tipico or chicken dinner for under US $2). This is a diminutive but very friendly place; just take your dink to the town dock (east end to leeward of Sucsuc) or to any of the rickety private docks headed west and ask for permission and directions. It s possible to purchase gasoline and diesel fuel on Sucsuc, also to get inexpensive scuba refills. Various boatmen here make frequent trips to La Ceiba on the mainland, making same-day turnarounds possible for a variety of parts and potions. Ask for Herman ( Capt. Ozzie , VHF Ch. 22) at the Cay View Restaurant. Anchorages. The best protected of the Utila Cay anchorages is located in the deep (40  50 in white sand) basin just north of Sucsuc. You ll want good light to work your way in, however  either side of Diamond Cay (immediately northeast of Sucsuc). In 2003 a small dive operation opened its dock and lodgings for business on the northerly side of the basin. Other cruisers opt for the small bight between Jack O Neil s Cay and Upper Water (Morgan s) Cay. It s tight here, though, and this is not the place to be when the wind s up from the south or northwest. Multiple anchorage possibilities (12 - 40 in white sand) also exist in the lengthy channel that stretches along the western shore of the main island. To enter the channel we used an outside WP (clear of the near-shore reefs) of N 16 03.5 W 86 57.7, taking a bearing on the passage between Pigeon (Down) Cay and Jack O Neal s Cay (immediately to the west). The channel, maintaining at least 40 depths, runs much closer to Jack O Neal s Cay, quite close to the boathouse on the easterly side of that cay. From good depth in front of the boathouse, we take a course of 340 to a derelict fishing shack just west of Holland Beach (well-raked, white beach development with three houses in 2003). Once the channel depth fades to about 20 (fairly near the shore), we turn to port, following the 20 contour, to our anchorage of choice, usually off the tiny private  marina at Pine Point, near the west end of the main island. To the south, the Utila cays stretch out along the southern horizon with a backdrop of the majestic mountains of Honduras Pico Bonito National Park. There s also good snorkeling across the channel off Jack O Neal s, Morgan s and Water cays to the south and excellent diving beyond Ragged Cay to the west. ROATAN.  Where the Hell is Roatan? the front-side T-shirt asks. Look to the back:  Between Utila and Guanaja , and so it is. An easy day trip from Utila  if you can just get the prevailing trades to back or veer  and you re at popular West End in a long morning for entry in good light. Coming from the west, this is the first possible anchorage (absent a Norther, when you don t want to be there) on an island rich in protected harbors, world-class diving and beautiful scenery. West End is a favorite dallying spot for cruisers wanting to stay on the hook in Roatan. Holding is good, the amenities of this newly developed part of the island are within an easy dink ride and excellent wall diving is little more than a hundred yards or so from the anchorage. Approach. West End Bay is entered via a cut in the reef next to a round and rusted iron stake of extending about 20 above the water, westerly of the bay s modest commercial development. We ve entered from WP N 16 17.7 W 086 36.0 on a course that would leave the iron stake immediately to port (about 10 yards off the port rail). Giving the stake a wider berth on one inward passage, we grazed a coral hump at about 6 feet; not recommended. Anchorage. Cruisers anchor in West End Bay inside the reef in about 10 - 20 of water (turtle grass over sand) at about 150  200 yards off the bays excellent beach. We found the best holding by turning right after entry. There the sand was either deeper or more penetrable under the grass. In a Norther or when the trades pick up a substantial southerly component, this is not the place to be, however. West End Ashore. Over the past fifteen years, small businesses, diving operations, resorts and restaurants at West Bay and Half Moon Bay (immediately to the east) have sprouted like errant mushrooms along the sandy beach road at the water s edge. Particulars change rapidly, but Foster s and Sueno del Mar (over the water bar/restaurants) appear to be staying the course for a casual bite with a view. Each of these places has a dinghy dock or you can park at the new, wooden public dock between them. There s an Internet caf across the road from Fosters, and there are any number of small tourist shops (many catering primarily to the cruise ship crowd) and a variety of small restaurants to choose among. On either end of Half Moon Bay, Mandy s Store and Woody s Grocery have, between them, a reasonable selection of basic goods to replenish larders. Gibson Bight. When West End Bay becomes untenable, we ve taken refuge in Gibson Bight, about 2.5 miles to the east of West End on Roatan s north coast. The entrance is a one-boat-narrow cut in the reef, but it s now well marked (white bottles on either side of the entrance) by a small dive resort situated inside and by a range (two white stakes) inside. We entered from outside WP: N 16 19.14 W 086 35.24 to inside WP: 16 19.08 W 086 35.18 . Depth (50 feet) is not an issue, so long as you re in the cut, which ascends to near-surface reef on both sides. Inside depths drop to about 8  12 in the suitable anchorage areas (away from the visible shallows, also marked by the range stakes). Holding is fair on a soft mud bottom and, except from due north, there s reasonable protection (commercial boats successfully weathered both  Fifi and  Mitch here). There s not much else to recommend the place and no access to shore except via The Last (dive) Resort. The rest is private homes and mangroves. Coxen Hole. This seedy, eyesore of a town has little to recommend it whatever. Yet it is the capital of the Bay Islands archipelago and for those checking into Honduras at Roatan, a must stop. In the early 20th century, this was the island s banana export harbor. Today it s large, deep, and easy to enter and not recommended. Knowledgeable locals (Dave and Donna on VICTORIA, among others) put the case plainly:  If you take your boat there and leave it unattended, you will be robbed. There are plenty of stories that will back up that assertion. Skippers entering Honduras in Roatan are advised to take a taxi to the Port Captain s Office in Coxen Hole from an anchorage in West End or from a berth in either Brick Bay or French Harbor. Port and immigration officials in Coxen Hole are widely reported to be wholly professional and easy to deal with, quite apart from the town s otherwise unsavory reputation. What s more, Warren s Store is next door to the Capitania del Puerto. It s one of the two major provisioning opportunities on the island. From here it s also an easy taxi or jitney ride across the island to Sandy Bay, where Rick s American Caf is a gathering place for ex pats and cruisers. Nearby Anthony s Key Resort has a great high deck for a late afternoon drink and a view of all outdoors (also relatively expensive dive excursions on the north side). Brick Bay. This large bight, approximately four miles east of Coxen Hole, offers an easy-access entry, protected anchorage and a very secure berth at Brick Bay Marina. About a mile and a half east of open-mouthed Dixon cove (a favorite anchorage of many cruisers during northers), Brick Bay Channel is easily identified in decent light as a wide (about an eighth of a mile) cut in the reef. Once inside the reef, look for a red & white stake, leaving it to port on a 90 turn to port into the Brick Bay lagoon and obvious facilities of the marina. A further stake (after the turn to port) at the opening of the lagoon should be left to starboard. The marina is justly popular with cruisers for its low rates ($15/night with metered electricity in 2002; significant discounts for longer stays), protection and security. The lunch we had at the marina s spacious and beautiful restaurant was quite tasty, though other reports have been less flattering. There s said to be a good anchorage in the area as well, north of Jesse Arch Cay, which is right of the channel on entry to Brick Bay). French Harbor. Roatan s  Second City is indeed a close second in resplendent beauty to Coxen Hole. Nonetheless, French Harbor can rightly boast of two accommodating marinas and a good (and truly beautiful) anchorage, also the island s best reprovisioning opportunity. Approach. From beyond sounder range off Old French Harbor and due south of the entrance, we aimed for WP N 16 21.9 W 086 27.0, about 25 meters right of  and into the channel from  the green ball marking the harbor entrance. (Unless you require fuel, which will mandate a trip into the commercial, shrimp-fleet harbor immediately to the west, Old French Harbor is the pace for yachts.) You can expect about 40 at the channel entrance, shallowing to about 8 -10 as you approach Old French Harbor s West Bight. About .25 miles into the channel, past the entrance buoy, a 20 -tall, rusted-metal post marks the end of the entrance reef skirting the channel northward from the inlet. Here a turn to starboard, past the post, takes you along the house-dotted shoreline (about 200-300 feet offshore in good water) to the popular French Cays Harbor. Alternatively, continuation in the entrance channel, leaving the post to starboard, will take you to the facilities of West Bight, protected by the peninsula along your port side on entry. Simply skirt the peninsula s shoreline, with a fishhook turn to port in about eight feet of water into the marina. Anchorage and Dockage. French Cays Harbor is best negotiated in decent light, since there are several unmarked shoals to avoid once inside the marker post. Depths are otherwise good (10 -20 ) and holding is secure in sand and marl, protected by the cays and reef to the south. Anchorage is not recommended in West Bight where the bottom is foul and security uncertain. To reach Fantasy Island Resort and Marina, simply proceed east through French Cays Harbor, alert to the shoal patches (two of which are marked by Fantasy Island with white floats). You can call  Fantasy Island Dive Shop (VHF Ch. 18A, answering in  Roatan English ) for availability along side the marina s face dock (fronting a string of motel rooms), seen to port on entering the dive center s turning basin. Depths at dockside range from 5 -8 depending upon position. In summer 2002, dockage cost $.60/ft./night, plus $.30/k.w. hr. for electricity and $.10/gal. for water, all metered at dockside. This was more than twice the going rate of the marina across the harbor, but there is access to the resort s diminutive pool, man-made beach, Internet connection and pricey restaurant. Taxis from the resort to French Harbor cost $10/roundtrip. You can also arrange for a delivered rental car here: $48/day. In West Bight, Roatan Dive Center and Yacht Club (formerly French Harbor Yacht Club) offers reasonable dockage rates (especially reasonable for long-term stays), one of Roatan s better restaurants at the YC above on the hill, a pool and walkable access to Roatan s best reprovisioning. There will be nasty water under your keel, however (so long as sewage treatment does not exist in French Harbor). French Harbor Ashore. French Harbor is a working town, dominated still by the world s largest shrimp fleet, clustered in the commercial harbor. (When the season is closed and the fishermen are off-payroll, baton down the hatches; theft skyrockets.) Though the place is short on charm, it does support the island s reputedly best restaurants, Gio s (across from Banffaa Bank) and nearby Casa Romeo s  both well recommended for shrimp and other seafood dishes. Eldon s Supermarket (about 1/10th mile from the Roatan Yacht Club at the French Harbor turnoff) is the largest and best on the island. It regularly carries fresh produce from the local hydroponic farm (superb baby-leaf lettuce, grape tomatoes, cucumbers and fresh herbs), a real treat in this area of the world. Just after  the boat comes in , you can reprovision very thoroughly here. Along the same route, same side of the street, there s a sizeable  Carneceria with a good selection of frozen Honduran meats and poultry. First Bight. About two miles east of Old French Harbor, First Bight is reputed by catamaran cruisers to offer some of the best storm protection in the Bay Islands. Unfortunately, for those of us with drafts of over four feet, there s no way into the deeper waters beyond the entry. Second Bight has in recent years become home to a major real estate and marina project, Parrot Tree Point. Plans are grand for a very high-end development, now (after seven years) only partially realized. Entry to the bight is marked by three iron poles (a fourth, seaward to port on entry, having been taken out by a construction barge). To enter, line up the two iron posts to starboard, on the easterly side of the cut, leaving them to starboard and imagining the forward port post in place, lined up with the inner port post. The entrance and inner harbor are deep enough to accommodate substantial keels (Roatan Aggressor comes in and out of here regularly), and dock space has been available here for a nominal fee. The latter will surely change as development progresses. There s a small restaurant at the foot of the docks, though in 2003, very little else save some extraordinarily well executed Italianate architecture. CAYOS COCHINOS (Hog Islands). If you re hankering for a respite on that perfect South Seas archipelago, without transiting the Canal for at least a months cruising west, this is the place. Just 20 NM south of Coxen Hole and 8 NM north of mainland Honduras, the two  major islands, Cochino Grande and Cochino Pequeno, are fringed to the south with a string of sandy, palm-lined jewels, islets that will tempt the imagination. The entire archipelago has been declared a national biological reserve, with restrictions on both anchoring and fishing, vigilantly enforced. Approach. From the Bay Islands farther offshore, steer a course, heading southward, that s centered between Cayos Grande and Cayos Pequeno. Fringing reefs border both islands, which will register plainly on your depth sounder as you approach. A wide turn to port on passing the channel between the major islands will take you in ample depths (50 -60 ) into the crotch of Cayos Grande, where, on both of the islands stubby arms, you ll note the half dozen Clorox bottles serving as mooring floats. Moorings. No anchorage is permitted in the Cayos Cochinos Biological Reserve, so it s all about the Clorox-bottle-marked moorings. There s usually one available, but it s a good idea to check ahead for availability with those already there (Northwest Caribbean Net SSB 8.188 MHz at 8:00 CST daily). On arrival, you ll need to check the condition of your mooring line physically. (Ours was hanging on by a thread last season and had to be replaced by a spare on board.) One further caveat: This is no place to be in a  norte . The Cayo Grande mooring field is wide open to the northwest. We toughed it out for a severe norther off Cayo Pequeno (with a bit more protection from the west) for several days in 1993, but don t recommend it. Cayos Cochinos Ashore. The only commercial establishment here is the laidback Plantation Beach Resort, a 10-cabin affair, tastefully tucked into the lush hillside ravine of Cochino Grande. On the right day, there may be no more interesting place to enjoy a family-style meal at the resort s large, mahogany common table. On various trips we ve met the Dutch protagonist of Turks Fruit there, the Director of Operations of Copan, an amazing clutch of local ex pats, and world-spanning sailors form all over the place. By dink you can visit most of the archipelago s islets for snorkeling and beach walks. The special treat is Chachawatti, a Garifuna fishing community  400 people crammed on to a small desert island with no local water supply, living in palm-dressed huts  somehow wrenching a living from the sea. They re not only cordial and accommodating but, unaccountably, they serve ice-cold beer and sodas at the lowest prices we encountered in Honduras. The only downside of this beautiful place that we ve found in recent years was the destruction of the shallow-water reefs from the El Nino bleaching events of the 1990s, topped off by the visit of Hurricane Mitch. The deeper diving (below one atmosphere) remains pristine, however. Plantation Beach Resort can fill your tanks or, better yet, take you on guided dives of the area. LA CEIBA. Honduras third largest city (following Tegucigalpa, the capital, and San Pedro Sula, the major manufacturing center), La Ceiba is said to be the Honduran  party town . Certainly there are plenty of clubs and restaurants to facilitate that, and the atmosphere is festive and friendly, even in the daytime. For cruisers these days, La Ceiba is an excellent place to take a breather, enjoy the amenities of a reasonably-priced yet first-rate marina, enjoy complete reprovisioning possibilities, find a variety of locally- available boat needs and make boat repairs that require shipped-in parts, specialty expertise and/or haul-out capability. Approach. The relatively new facilities of the protected lagoon, east of the Congrejal River mouth and ancient town dock (long used by the banana fleet), offer the only reasonable shelter for small yacht. We approached the Lagoon breakwaters by heading for WP N 15 48.00 W 086 45.66 (an easy day trip in good wind and weather from either Utila or Roatan and an even shorter run from the Cayos Cochinos. On approach we hailed Laguna Marina (VHF Ch. 69) for directions. Shifting sands at the mouth of the inlet and inside the protective breakwaters render directions out of date almost as soon as they are written. Yet Tony and Rita Vorleiter, proprietors of the marina, are unfailingly helpful. Like as not, Tony will arrange to come out to meet you in his skiff to guide your entry through the breakwaters and into the protected lagoon  to port beyond the commercial docks at the head of the inlet. (In May 2003, a dredge that had been working to improve the harbor was grounded during a severe norther, causing something of an obstruction at the moth of the inlet. Presumably this will be removed by the time this account sees print, but if not, you ll require additional specific entry directions.) Dockage and Marine Facilities. Lagoon Marina (tel. 00504-440-0614, email: lagoonmarina@psinet.hn) has slip space for about 25 boats ($15/day, incl. water and electricity in 2003), a wonderful fresh water pool, large palapa for evening gatherings, small ship s store and beautiful grounds surrounding a quiet riverside setting. The marina is the authorized Mercury dealer for this part of the world and offers several other lines of marine electronics and gear. This place has rightly become very popular in a hurry, so it s best to contact them in advance to reserve a space for your stay. A number of cruisers regularly store their boats here for trips inland (ours to the Rio Congrejal and Pico Bonito Parque National for rafting and rain forest hiking with Omega Tours was spectacular) or to fly elsewhere from La Ceiba s airport. Next door to the marina (about 1/10th of a mile closer to the Laguna entrance), La Ceiba Shipyard (email: shipyard@laceiba.com) has major lift capability, will let you do your own work and has mechanics of variously reputed skills  depends upon whom you ask. The yard can order and receive (within a week or two) virtually any parts from the States for yachts in transit without duty. From this location, you ll need a taxi to reach the amenities of the city  about $3 each way/person (more at night). La Ceiba Ashore. La Ceiba, the city, has far more to offer than can be given justice here. There are numerous restaurants (Ricardo s on Ave. 14 de Julio said to be the best in Honduras and no dispute here), a bevy of banks with ATM and money exchange capabilities, a large, festive (though non-touristy) plaza with dozens of stalls and shops, a full range of hotels, Spanish schools, and any number of world-class nature trips not far from town. (See: www.honduras.com.hondurastips/) Of interest to most cruising visitors, La Ceiba has several very large and impressively stocked supermarkets:  El Ceibeno and  El Pueblo among others. Also, Kawa Motores (next to the Texaco station) has a large selection of marine parts and accessories, though geared largely to the local dorymen and commercial ship captains. You can make phone calls and send or receive faxes at the Hondutel office (Ave. Ramn Rosa/6th Calle). GUANAJA. Second largest of the Bay Islands (and highest)  more than nine nautical miles long and three wide (highest elevation over 1,800 ft.)  Guanaja s main island is little developed and all but unknown to the tourist trade. Most of Guanaja s population is densely settled on two tiny cays, long since merged into one. With few exceptions, any business to be transacted on Guanaja will take place on this crammed off-island cay, so-called Bonaca Town. Otherwise, cruising boats cluster elsewhere around this crossroads island, taking a breather from a long passage up from Panama or awaiting that illusive weather window to get east  around the corner to Panama or beyond. Approach. On the passage to Guanaja from the west, we approached south of Guanaja s West End steering to WP N 16 23.50 W 085 55.30, then to mid-channel between Southwest Cay and the visible shoal protecting the main island (WP N 16 25.00 W 085 53.30) and then to WP N 16 26.25 W 085 52.5, in good water between Pond Cay Light and the stake marking the westerly end of the shoal reaching westward from Kiatron s Cay. From here we steered a course into El Bight, leaving Dunbar Rock with its dominant, white mini-hotel (perched on top) to port on approaching the bight. Expect depths to shallow to around 12 feet on approaching Dunbar Rock. There s an additional shoal to starboard on entering the bight itself, making reasonable light helpful for a safe approach. Guanaja is also accessible from the south through the channel between Half Moon Cay (to the west) and the reef extending west from Jack s Cay. After a false start and futile 140-mile effort to round the corner (15 miles made good in 34 hours), we returned to Guanaja via this channel using an outside WP N 16 26.59 W 085 50.62, proceeding to WP N 16 26.70 W 085 50.84 (center channel between shoals), then to WP N 16 27.05, W 085 51.05, inside the reef and shoals. Anchorages. The most protected and popular anchorage on Guanaja is in El Bight (described above), just east of Sandy Bay, which has good holding in 8 -25 of water, though as you anchor farther west in greater depths toward Bonaca Town (Sheen Cay on the chart), the wave action becomes increasingly noticeable. This is a convenient location for dinghy trips to Bonaca Town or, just possibly, a volley ball game and potluck at La Lampera (site of the former Italian restaurant by that name). Guanaja abounds in other anchorages on the north side, though they are exposed in that direction and will be unpleasant during passing northers. Our favorite spot, during our wait for favorable winds to work our way eastward, was off Josh s Cay. In 2003, Graham Thompson (owner of Josh Cay and the Island Place Bar & Restaurant ashore, VHF, Ch. 06) established seven 1,500 lb. moorings in the lee of the key and high reef beyond, each marked by a bright orange float and secured by heavy chain and shackles. They re free for the taking by visiting cruisers; just pick up the yellow-polly pennants spliced to each float, then follow the markers by dinghy (west of the key, leaving them to port) to the Island Place (AKA Graham s Place) dock. You can get fresh water there (piped from a spring across the bay), leave your trash and enjoy one of Chef Reggie s incredible soups at the open-air restaurant. It s also possible to wash your laundry here while visiting Graham and his many finned, feathered and furry pets  see if you can spot the agoutis. Along with CONTIGO, FAIR WINDS, and KIWI, we moored for nearly a month here awaiting that illusive lull in the moderate-to-strong trades that gave Columbus so much trouble heading east from here some 500 years ago. MOLA MOLA made this and Hendrick s Cay, just to the east, their anchorage base for some excellent diving and spear fishing in Northeast Channel and along the walls on the weather side of the reef. Guanaja Ashore. In the Ship and the Storm, the captain of the Fantome is quoted (before Hurricane Mitch) to say:  Here s what there is to do on Guanaja [long pause following]. Though the long pause is descriptive, you can check in or out of the country at Bonaca Town with ease. (The Port Captain s office is located on the primary cargo dock; the Immigration official is located in a private house about a block away.) Moreover, both of these officials are very accommodating to cruising boats, allowing us, for example, to overstay our visas without hassle when unfavorable and unpredicted winds delayed our departure schedule by over two weeks. There are two banks that will honor your bank or credit cards for cash withdrawals or debits, two fair-sized markets (plus numerous smaller ones), several vegetable and fruit stands in the open air, an ersatzes Mexican restaurant and Hondutel to make your calls and faxes. The English-speaking post mistress at the Correo Postal can also help you mail stuff out, though it may take awhile. All this is on the main (walking-only) drag. The supply boats come in from La Ceiba (some 60 miles away) on Friday (about 9 a.m.  10 a.m.), so this is the time to be in town. And while there, don t miss the Ex Pat s lunch at Pirate s Den, where the Germans, Americans, English, and Canadians who now live on Guanaja greet each other and on-hand visiting cruisers  every Friday around noon. At the north end of Bonaca Town, the Texaco station has both diesel fuel and gasoline and the adjoining store has a variety of goods and the local fresh bread. If you need outboard engine repair or service, just ask there for Racie. Probably the easiest place to get your propane tanks filled anywhere is  Alcatraz (on the small cay just west of the northerly end of Sheen Cay/Bonaca Town). Simply pull up to their deep-water side dock and hand over your tank for an instant fill. The Yamaha dealer is here too. West End Guanaja has a weekly barbeque that attracts a goodly crown of cruisers and locals every Saturday. Ask Jim (AKA  Spike , VHF Ch. 77) about a ride in his dory or possibly a trip to the waterfall on the north side of the island. For cruisers this is better than a  long pause , but there isn t much more. Savanna Bight. From a Josh s Cay mooring, it s a about a 1.5-mile dinghy ride to the quaint island town of Savanna Bight. Beyond Demsen Watler s Store at the foot of the concrete town dock, there s not much here of a commercial sort. But it s fun to walk the bayside street; the kids (and adults too) are more than friendly and the scenery s grand. Watler s Store has a surprising supply of goodies, even quality frozen meats. But there s little else except pastoral and marine views. You can anchor off the bight, but you ll want good light to spot the shoals on approach. GETTING AROUND THE CORNER. On his fourth and final voyage during the late summer of 1502, the Admiral of the Ocean Sea spent a fitful 28-days beat along a jagged path off the Mosquito Coast from the Rio Romano, south of Guanaja, to Cabo Gracias a Dios, at the Honduras-Nicaragua border.  Other tempests I have seen, Columbus reported,  but none that lasted so long or so grim as this. Little wonder that the great Admiral s  Thanks to God, utterance in Spanish on passing Honduras final cape and  corner was the name that remains on the charts to this day. The tempest we and others encountered in 2003 was less rain-filled that that encountered by Columbus, but the moderate to strong trade winds were no less daunting to the boats of our small, if far more modern fleet. Also going for us were the advantages of contemporary marine charts and daily (or even more frequent) weather forecasting, including a variety of weather fax  products (current surface analyses and satellite photos, and 24-, 48- and 72-hour forecasts) downloaded from NOAA and additional forecasts (hardcopy analyses and  grib file wind and wave forecasts) via SSB and HAM  Airmail . All of these products were faithfully monitored and reported daily by our regional SSB net weathermen: Dave on VICTORIA, Doug on QUE LINDA, Doug on LIMERANCE and Chris of CONTIGO. Even so, most agreed that NOAA s models and analysts were consistently off  low in their wind speed and wave height estimates  by a factor of between 25% and 50%. Frustratingly, predicted  window after  window in the prevailing heavy trades would disappear on approach; by the time  window day appeared, forecasts would have been revised, and actual winds would be even higher than the revised and elevated forecast. After an attempt to take advantage of one of these (false) windows, several of us turned tail after realizing that the attempt to buck 25- to 35-knot winds and confused 8 to 15 foot seas coming at us from along our rhomb line to our waypoint would make for less than a pleasant passage. A trip of 10 to 15 miles a day made good would no doubt look and feel much like the great Admiral s effort, modern conveniences notwithstanding. Our initial plan called for alternative partial passages to the  corner , such as the duration of a weather window would permit: to Honduras Swan Island and/or Quita Sueo Bank, Columbia (see SOGGY PAWS excellent coverage of this route, SSCA, May 2002) if the prevailing easterlies calmed and clocked or to the Vivorillo Cays (see accounts of SUENO, SSCA, December 1997 and O-WELL, SSCA, June 2002) if they backed. Once the real weather window (5-10 knot easterlies and 3-foot seas) finally appeared, ENKIDU, along with CONTIGO, FAIR WINDS and KIWI, took advantage of it, motor sailing to the corner, then beam reaching off the light wind for as long as permitted  non-stop to Low Cay off Isla Providencia, Columbia (well covered in SOGGY PAWS, May 2002), three days later. ISLA PROVIDENCIA, COLUMBIA When the expected moderate trade winds resumed, Low Cay was no longer a tenable anchorage, and our small fleet headed for check-in at Providencia s primary harbor, tucked between the western end of Isla Providencia (Isabel Village) and neighboring Isla Santa Catalina. The archipelago is at once topographically interesting (with enough size and rainfall to feed their river reservoir), lightly populated by friendly English speakers   friendliest in the Caribbean, they boast  and extraordinarily beautiful scenery. There are also gorgeous, near-deserted beaches to explore, steep, jungled hills to climb, enough native-style restaurants and adequate provisioning possibilities to keep cruisers on the hook there for some while. Approach. An extensive barrier reef protects the easterly side of Providencia for the full length of the island, extending northward to Low Cay. There are additional, though less extensive shoals and reefs on the westerly side of the island as well. We approached Catalina Harbor from deep water to the west of the island, using WP N 13 23.9 W 081 23.6 close to the sea buoy at the entrance to the harbor s well-marked channel. Lighted red (starboard) and green (port) buoys line the channel, which was consistently deeper than 5 meters. Anchorages. Catalina Harbor s anchorage extends from the last of the paired channel buoys to the Isabel Town Dock about two-tenths of a mile to port. Depths range from about 15 to 7 on approaching the dock with some shoaling off the Isla Catalina beach. Holding is excellent once ground tackle is well set in the grass and sand bottom. Depth at the commercial dock in town is said to be 9 feet, and there s ample dinghy space (and trash receptacles) just to the left of the town dock. O-WELL (SSCA, June 2002) reports a second good anchorage in Manchioneal Bay to the south, though we did not explore it. Providencia Ashore. Even before going ashore to begin the check-in process, we were in touch with the harbormaster s agent, Mr. Bernardo Bush (VHF Ch. 16), who quickly made arrangements for all four boats in our mini-fleet. Mr. Bush brought appropriate officials and papers to FAIR WINDS, where we gathered with our various passports, crew lists and boat document copies for the most efficient country check-in yet logged (total cost  in and out, $40/boat and crew, paid on departure and receipt of zarpe). Once these brief formalities were concluded, four dinks headed to shore to explore the village s amenities (mostly on the main street perpendicular to the waterfront), which include two well and differently stocked grocery stores, Sea Flower Bakery with a lending library next door, all manner of sundries available at Bush s store, and two banks with ability to make debit and credit card transactions (left of the dinghy dock). Laundry can be done at a reasonable price with Elhenia (on Isla Catalina, left at the end of the foot bridge from Isabel), and while you re on Catalina, you can lunch at Eneida s Restaurant, which some regard as the area s best. You ll need a car or truck to explore the island much beyond the village, but it s inexpensive and easily arranged by Mr. Bush. With a ride to Southwest Beach, there s an unforgettable seafood lunch in the rough at Divino Nio, or at Roland Root s Bar on the Beach, where a special wood-roasted fish meal can be arranged (also a local  very  band that will keep you entertained well into the night). The diving is excellent on the reefs and there are a number of laid-back resorts to facilitate that. Little wonder that mainland Columbians regard Providencia as  paradiso . SAN ANDRS, COLUMBIA The more citified and sophisticated than Providencia, San Andrs has far less physical diversity and natural beauty than its country cousin, but infinitely more shopping in this bustling little free port. Approach and anchorages. Leaving ample sea room to the east of San Andrs extensive barrier reef, we steered a course for the main harbor s red and white entrance buoy (WP N 12 32.32 W 081 41.44) then followed the well-marked and lighted channel to the commercial dock and turning basin. The area beyond the turning basin is shoal, requiring a course through the fishing fleet closer to shore to reach the anchorage in front of Nene s Martina (the place to secure inexpensive Columbian diesel fuel and gasoline). It s possible to anchor here among the fishing boats but not generally recommended for security reasons. A better anchorage for cruisers if found 150-200 meters off Club Nutico (extensive green-roofed structure just beyond the vast, concrete affair built by the infamous Pablo Escobar family that is the now state-owned Sunrise Hotel). But you cannot get there from Nene s unless you draw less than three feet. The approach to the Club Nutico anchorage is made on entering the harbor with a turn to starboard between channel buoys Red  10 and Red  12 . In decent light you ll be able to see the deeper water (at least 9 feet) beyond the light green and brownish shallows surrounding Cayo Santander. Keep inside (but hug) the white-green sandy area farther to starboard toward the reef which it s quite shallow (the depths are not so shallow as the charts show but you have to stay in the narrow deep part). San Andres Ashore. The island has been covered recently and well (STORMY PETREL II, SSCA, January 2003) in these pages (see also the write-up and map available at the Club Nutico office), so we ll add only a few entries for those overlooked and special kudos to those who served us especially well during our two-month visit. You ll need an agent to check into San Andres, which can quickly be arranged with a call on VHF Ch. 16 on approach. We were much assisted by Rene Cardona of the Serena Agency for check in/out ($40, paid on exit), also for arranging a shipment from the States ($95 plus a reasonable service fee for a 4x4x4 container of parts from the States) and facilitating documents for immigration renewals. The Club Nutico staff was unfailingly helpful, down to providing all the facilities for a gringos Fourth of July party and barbeque  hosting CAVALI, CONTIGO, ENKIDU, FEISTY, KIWI and LULU, along with honorary  Canadian gringos on BAHATI. We and most others anchored off the club s dock, felt their charges ($15/week or $50/month) for access to all facilities (best-value-in-town restaurant, TV lounge, protected dinghy dock with 24-hour guard, shower and restrooms, exercise room, tennis court and large fresh water pool) were well worth the fee. \ There are a slew of restaurants on the island, though none comparable to what you ll find in Cartegena or Panama City. Having sampled most, we found ourselves returning repeatedly to Antonio s La Pizzeria (best Italian food in many a nautical mile, at the traffic circle on Ave. Americas and Ave. Providencia, hot mid-day but great in the cool of evening), the Sea Breeze (bottom floor of the Hotel by that name; air conditioned and serves lunch) at Ave. Newball on the Barracuda circle and the Club Nutico Restaurant (no air conditioning but a ceiling full of fans), where it was difficult not to have a tasty but amazingly inexpensive lunch after each morning s  savings in the duty-free shops. In fact, we saved so much that visits to the islands many ATMs (U.S. $200 limit) were an all too frequent event. Frequent visits were also inescapable to the MiniRey (Ave. Providencia and Hellgate), which has well learned the pent up food-specialty needs of North American and European cruisers. We were pleased to find Centro Optico del Caribe for the professional services of Dr. Alcides Ramirez (first-rate eyeglasses at fraction of U.S. prices, Ave. 20 de Julio, No. 3-173, (315) 754-9689). We were ably assisted with our outboard motor repairs by Alex (315-369-6705), and by LeRoy Mitchel (038-512-2768) with our SSB problem. The gang of us who went diving with San Andrs Divers (578-513-03-0347, sadivers@sol.net.co) were well pleased by their professional and safety conscious service and state-of-the-art equipment. Conditions permitting, they also take dive groups to Isla Bolivar and the Albuquerque Cays. Another amenity on San Andrs is the Bell South cellular telephone service (located in the Sunrise Hotel shop complex) via pre-paid cell phone cards for local and long distance calls at surprisingly good rates. Better yet their phones can be reprogrammed, country-by-country, for similar service throughout Central and South America. It is now possible to remain (with visa renewals) in the Rep. of Columbia for up to six months each calendar year, but having stocked beyond budget and reasonable carrying capacity, ENKIDU was now fully  around the corner , positioned and ready for a relatively easy passage to any of the Panamanian ports abeam the trades. ASSOCIATES BOB (KG4RMI) AND BARBARA GILMOUR www.sailenkidu.com . Providencia, hot mid-day but great in the cool of evening), the Sea Breeze (bottom floor oHr   @H$)2<(KKnWre8ijknrx^ܓij<VT>0`d#%P*.l3;AAGK|PvT^F^_kmptR{:ĆBDFH(2"'( ) @S  'DH@V"P>^AA^F^kkqrr&r|rrBHppp88p8 " 6 "" "|$ 088 "PS" $ 08."2 "PSS" $ 08. "PS" $ 080 "PS" $ 08T8>b4Definition TermDefinition ListH1H2H3H4H5H6Address Blockquote Preformattedz-Bottom of Form z-Top of Formp~  0:JTdlzDP " " " " " "|  ""| "  "|" "  "" " " "  "" "  "" "  ""  "  "|"|, "$  08)P2J' (@ J   O +%( u.0 78 c A@ (VJH SP \. " $  08u. 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